Cavenagh Bridge - Start of the journey

The famous Merlion sitting at the Singapore River mouth since 2002. It was located on another side of the river further to the east of the present site. On 6 Mar 09 it suffered the embarrassing strike of a lightning bolt and its left ear fell to the ground. It has since been made good and is still drawing millions of tourists to take pictures for keepsake.

Across the road behind the Merlion, to its right but not in the picture, is the Fullerton Hotel. This old but majestic building of the colonial era stood imposingly at the original river mouth once. For many years the Fullerton Building was the Central Post Office as well as the Inland Revenue Office. Now it is a 5 star hotel and in a class of its own. Its building structure looks like it is going to be there for another thousand years.

I am now standing at the Cavenagh Bridge looking at the Fullerton, at 6pm in the evening. This bridge was named after Colonel Orfeur Cavenagh, the last Governor of the Straits Settlement. And this is where our journey up the Singapore River will begin.

Looking up the Singapore River

On the left side of the river is the heart of Singapore's financial centre. All the tall buildings are banks. Maybank, Bank of China, Stanchart and United Overseas Bank(UOB).

Look at the clean and green water in the river. It wasn't like that for almost a century. The river was cleaned up in the the late 1970s to what it is today. The spot we are looking at in the photo was where the river boats would load and unload their cargoes in the earlier days. The huge wooden boats, called tongkangs then, were the king of the river. Their loads were rice, sugar and all the spices and food for the island. This was where the story of Singapore started.

The tongkangs had been cleared from the area when all the trading activities were moved out. You may see some of them in modified forms as river taxis or something else along the way. And oh, the water in the river were once blackish in colour, with a strong pungent stench, and with many debris due to the high river traffic. Today the water is good enough for our tap. It is now part of the island's reservoir. Many of the towkays or millionaires made their fortune from this river.

Both sides of the river have been redeveloped for entertainment and recreational activities while some have been retained as modern commercial buildings. The photo below shows Maybank on the left and Bank of China on the right.

Asian Civilisation Museum -Empress Place

On the ride side of the river bank stands the Asian Civilisation Museum. This is where the arts and crafts of Asian countries are on display. The current exhibition is of Emperor Kang Xi period. You can see the colour banners on the front wall.

This is another colonial building called Empress Place Building and once housed the Victoria Memorial Hall. Many concerts were held here. And in front of the main entrance where the banners are, once stood the statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder this island for the British Empire. He stood tall on a high pedestal looking towards the sea. And we use to ask, 'Which of his hand was tucked in his pocket?' Of course none. His arms were both folded in front of his chest.

The left side of the building now houses the famous Indochine Waterfront Restaurant and Bar.

The Indochine Restaurant

The restaurant moved into the premises only a few years back. It caters to the well heeled and financial workers of the city. The 3 huge buddha heads fronting the restaurant are unmistakable and in a way tell the visitors of the restaurant's origin, Indochina. The cuisine is a mixed of Vietnamese and French.

The bronze statues - immortality

There were many sets of bronze figurines located around both sides of the river. These were commissioned to honour the pioneers who set foot on the island centuries ago. These two sets sit pretty on the front of the Indochine Restaurant.

The above photo shows the pioneers of the banking industry. Sitting in the middle is an Indian chettiar. The European banker on his right and a Chinese moneylender to his left. They were the forefathers of modern banking in the island.

The right photo shows a few coolies and a kepala or labour gang leader sitting on a sack of rice. The long plait of hair on the burnt back is obvious as to where they were from.

Raffles statue and old Parliament House

Located behind the Asian Civilisation Museum is the old Parliament House. It is now a restaurant called the Timbre. And standing to its right, looking into the photo, is where the statue of Stamford Raffles now stood. Look at his folded arms.


And behind him, across the rivers, are the skyscrapers of big financial institutions. The towering block acting as a backdrop to Raffles is one of two towers of UOB. It is claimed that the present site where Raffles stood was where he first landed on the islandin 1819. And the surrounding area was claimed for his government offices.

Back on Cavenagh Bridge

This is a tongkong which has been converted from carrying cargoes to carrying passengers and tourists. Its signature look is the pair of big eyes, one on each side of the boat. It has retained its original colour of the past except for the top that has been added on.

Looking out to the river mouth is the Anderson Bridge. Another historic bridge built by the Colonial Government and named after the Straits Settlements' Governor. Like the Cavenagh Bridge, both were made of steel. There were several bridges linking the two sides of the Singapore River.

Naked boys jumping into the river

Yes, even till the late 1960s, the river was still the commercial hub of the entrepot trade. The tongkangs lined both sides of the river like cars parking side by side. There were shophouses with families living on the upper floors. There were many wayward children with too much time in their hands and jumping off the tongkangs or river banks into the blackish water was fun. No joke, but they normally did it during high tide when the cleaner water were flowing in from the sea. And they were naked children, gutsy and without fear. It was their leap of faith, showing their manhood. The bronze boys were just outside the Fullerton Hotel.

On the right photo is an old towkay(Chinese businessman), his European counterpart, a bullock cart and a mobile Malay satay stall with its owner standing by. And the European visitors were listening to their tales of the past. This is located just outside the Maybank.

The Singapore River view

On the left of the river bank stood rows of old shophouses that were once the main offices and warehouses of importers and exporters of food and spices. This is Boat Quay. In front of the houses, directly next to the river, were tents built for dining under the hot tropical sun, or under the moonlight.

The shophouses were no longer used as traders' offices or residences but restaurants, pubs and other businesses.

See how clean the river is. No debris, no stench.

The tongkangs and Botero bird

The tongkangs or bumboats in their new roles, plying the river to show the tourists what Singapore River is today, and the guides telling stories of yesteryears.

Hey look, Botero was here! Yes, that is his unmistakable big bird sitting at the front patio of the UOB. Across the river is where the old and new parliament houses are. And what's that, a flying saucer? Unbelieveable, that is the top level of the Supreme Court, just a short walk from the new Parliament House.

The UFO Supreme Court

Above photo is the Asian Civilisation Museum. On the right is the UFO like Supreme Court. Want to go in for a spin? It would not fly off for sure. Below where the two tongkangs are is one of the river taxi station.

Boat Quay at 6pm

The early diners and drinkers are already here filling up the tables by the river. Most are working in the finance industry, and many are foreign talents from the west. This is a very convenient drinking hole a short walking distance from the offices. And weather in the evening is just superb for a little dining, drinking and unwinding.

Bars and Pubs at Boat Quay

The bars and pubs are everywhere, in every corner of this narrow lane beside the river. Just pop in and say hi, 'Give me a Tiger!' Don't worry about food. That can come later.

Manchester United in Singapore

The drinking signages are all over the place. And where is this place? Manchester United! By the Singapore River? Yes, there is a Manchester United Club here and many football fans, locals and visitors as well. They will probably ask for a pint of Scottish ale in the pub.

Sumptious food at Boat Quay

Please come in. We have everything for you to eat. It is still a wee bit early for dinner, I think.

River side dining

The lights are on and food is ready. Tables are nicely set up by the river. A little darker and candle lights will be just perfect. You can't get it more romantic than this, in a tropical paradise.

This is the life, man!

Dining lights

These lights will keep you company while you dine.

Looking back and across the river

Here is the new Parliament House by the river, the seat of power. And the towering skyscrapers we left behind. From the left is Maybank, Bank of China, Stanchart, a little back is Singapore Land Building, Left tower of UOB joining the right tower by a connector. Big bird is just sitting in between them. The famous calculator building behind is OCBC, Overseas Chinese Banking Corporation. Incidently the locals used OCBC to mean 'Orang Cina Bukan Cina.' A colloquial swipe for the local Chinese who have lost their identity.

Waiting for diners

Yes they are waiting for you. The waiters and waitress, including the above, are waiting for the diners to come in.

The service workers arriving for work

Don't get me wrong. These are the service staff at the pubs and restaurants. Some could be musicians, singers and dancers. The Elgin Bridge, strong and solid concrete joining North and South Bridge Road. Visitors can either walk up the steps and cross over the bridge or take the underpass on the left of the steps below.

Elgin and Coleman Bridge

The full Elgin Bridge above and Coleman Bridge further inland. And the buses above the bridge while the river taxis plying below. We are now moving closer to our destination, Clark Quay.

Former High Street Police Station, now MICA

A section of Coleman Bridge above and the front view of the former High Street Police Station. It is now the MICA, the Ministry of Information, Culture and Arts. Did I get it right? And another taxi station below.

The underpass

After this section will be the more exciting part of the journey, where the action is.

The Central Shopping Complex

This is the latest attraction for the youth. The Central is being promoted as the Soho of this city state. It is meant to be fashionable and cool for the young people.

The Ord Bridge

This is the last bridge at the end of the river that we will see. There are a few more bridges beyond, the Alkaff Bridge and Pulau Saigon Bridge. Further inland will be the housing estates for the locals.

The river is also starting to get narrower. Another taxi station below the bridge.

The River Point restaurants

The first sight of the popular River Point complex housing some famous restaurants like The Ultimate Fried Rice, Jumbo Seafood, Cafe Iguana, A971 Cafe and Brewerks. Some early diners are already there.